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Resin Casting

Pressure pot time?
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Patience is not a virtue I have.

  The first one came out pretty good.   I need brighter flowers or tint the resin more than I did.   

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Hi Jesse -

Success!! These look very pretty - hopefully, as you say they will turn easily and hold up. Maybe go a little thicker on the diameter than you might normally to keep the most flower pieces in play. I would let the blanks rest and harden in a warm house for a few days before turning - it will help them finish curing.

Glad you were able to work through the process.....look forward to seeing the end product!!

Kevin




On 2/6/2023 8:39 AM, Resin Casting wrote:
Thanks all for comments and suggestions.  The 2nd time was a success.   

I think a few things happened.  Mostly it was cold in the garage and I didn’t wait long enough for the set up.  

 This time I waited about 20 hours before opening the pressure pot.   Last time they didn’t cure fully and then the moisture from the workshop air caused the trouble 

I think maybe though I will try to make blanks without the tubes next time.    This way I can really saturate the resin with dried flowers. 

Hopefully they turn well.  

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To add to Kevin's post I like to give my resin bottles a hot water bath prior to mixing to make it easier to pour. Just put the bottles in a container and fill upto the resin level in the bottles with hot tap water. A couple minutes is all it takes to warm it up. Another thing i like to do in the colder months is blow hot air in my pressure pot with a heat gun to preheat the inside.

Wow – looks like there are air bubbles around the flowers.  In the past I’ve left clear slow in the pressure pot overnight, but I’d think in 4 – 6 you’d be good.

 

I need a like button via email - Kevin that was a fantastic response - so much good information!   
Joday

Hi Jesse -


Took a look at the pic after reading your description of what happened. Two things - air temperature and prevailing moisture in the air and in your media are big factors for success. The pressure pot doesn't fix things, it just compresses the air left in the resin to very small bubbles that are not visible to the eye. In order for the pressure pot to work - which usually takes about 4 hours under roughly 40 lbs of pressure - the resin has to be working properly so it hardens some amount of time before you release the pressure.


Alumilite is exothermic - meaning it requires heat generated by the chemical reaction to set. Alumilite slow requires 50% of A and 50% of B BY WEIGHT in order to set properly - NOT by volume. The resin requires every molecule of part A to be in contact with every molecule from part B, otherwise the resin will not cure properly - usually staying soft or taking a really long time to cure.

So that might have been first possible issue. If the resin is not mixed thoroughly, or if when you scrape the mixing bowl to get the last of the resin out you picked up some unmixed resin, that could be your hardening issue.


Secondly, in the winter, it is advisable to get the resin to a warmer place prior to mixing. If your resin was too cold, the pot time may be affected, as the mixed resin needs to get to about 180 -200 degrees for it to set up properly. If your room is cold where you store it, mixed it, or had the pressure pot, the outside air may have negatively affected the resin. The chemical reaction could not compensate for the low temps where you cast.


Second potential is humidity - three possible sources - 1) your air compressor 2) your flowers 3) excess humidity in the air. Alumilite foams when it experiences contact with moisture. If you don't have a water/moisture trap on your compressor and if your compressor has moisture or water in the air reservoir, you could be getting the foaming from there. High humidity also has a double effect - the air itself has a lot of moisture, and when compressed, the air compressor amplifies the moisture through compression - mandating that you have a moisture trap on the output of the compressor when feeding the pressure pot. If you haven't bled your compressor storage tank lately, I would also look at that, as the tank can hold a lot of water without affecting normal air operations.


From the looks of the blank, I would say all three factors were in play - there was definitely moisture affecting the resin (from the air compressor the flowers), and the cure time was long due to mixing issues or cold shop.


I would get a moisture trap for your compressor, low temp bake the flowers for a few hours in an oven before casting, and monitor resin casting temps and give it another shot!


Good luck!!!


Kevin


It does look like bubble wrap.   It was looking good when I opened the pressure pot at first but as I said just soft and not cured.  I may try again this weekend and maybe have more patience.  



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When you go to the show, ask Barry. 



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That's weird - looks like bubble wrap.  Doesn't alumilite cure without the pressure pot?  I thought that the pot just helped get the bubbles out.  Maybe the flowers add too much air and it can't all escape before the resin cures.  
Jody

Jesse,


When I do resin, I leave it for 24-48 hours.

That's weird - looks like bubble wrap.  Doesn't alumilite cure without the pressure pot?  I thought that the pot just helped get the bubbles out.  Maybe the flowers add too much air and it can't all escape before the resin cures.  
Jody

So I was experimenting with a couple blanks and dried flowers. Made the pour with Alumilite Slow. Put into pressure pot. I normally do this late day and leave overnight. But this time did mid morning and pulled before dinner. The blanks were soft and not cured fully. I thought well maybe I measured weighed wrong. This am I looked and now cured but look like a mess. I may be lucky and salvage but not hopeful


Anyhow, how long do you all leave in the pot for pen blanks and other items? I thought 4-6 was long enough.



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