Newsletter
March 2010
Newsletter
March 2010
March Meeting
Is Tuesday!
March 9th
7:30 PM Start
Meetings are held
at the small pre-school building on the corner of County Line Road & Ridge
Avenue
Social hour starts @ 7:00
March meeting Highlight
The meeting will feature a demo by Sal Straniero: “Making Pepper Mills”. Anyone who has been to any of our recent show & tell sessions has seen Sal’s great work. He’ll show us how, step by step, from set up and measuring, tools and parts needed, to finishing.
Upcoming Meetings
No Show and Tell this month: The next show & tell is now scheduled for the June meeting. Get to the lathe and make some great things! Tom will have the photo booth up and running.
Since there was no February meeting, the Challenge for March is still Inside-out turning.
“Open Turning” is now scheduled for the May meeting. We’re scheduled to have someone to do bowls, hollow turning, and sharpening, but if anyone wants something else, let us know so we have whatever we need on hand.
The President’s Message
At the woodworking show last weekend, I noticed that one of
our club's lathes was performing poorly. A couple of people attempted to turn
things between centers, and weren't able to because the tailstock kept sliding,
and the quill wasn't advancing properly. Someone else tried drilling a hole
using a Jacob's Chuck inserted in the tailstock. Needless to say, he wasn't
successful, for the same reasons. After the show, I decided to bring the lathe
home with me, and see what I could do to fix it.
I spent about an hour on it, and I'm pleased to report, the lathe is operating
like new again!
This brings me to the topic of this month's column. Most of us get so little
time to spend turning that we forget to take time to maintain our equipment. My
suggestion to you all is to MAKE time. An hour a month can make a big
difference, and can greatly improve the quality of our turning time when we do
get to do it. This doesn't have to cut into your turning time; instead, you can
take a few minutes here and there. For
instance, take a half hour after dinner, before your favorite shows come on. A
half hour here and a half hour there can make a huge difference when added all
together.
I use this approach for sharpening. Most turners put their tools away dull. It
makes sense; you use them, then set them aside. Who
sharpens them after they're done using them? But that means when you're
ready to turn your next project, you have to take time to sharpen the tools,
which again cuts into your turning time. Instead, during the week, if you have
a few free minutes, take the time to sharpen your tools, and put them away sharp!
Then, when you're ready to turn, you can get to it with sharp tools.
Most importantly, take time to maintain your safety equipment, too. Powered
respirators, like the Triton or Trend air shields, have filters that can become
clogged. Clean them or replace them frequently. Clean the face shield - inside
and out. Empty your dust collector and shop vacs.
A little time spent on maintenance can really go a long way!
Below, I've included a guide to maintaining your lathe. Next month, I will
follow up with a similar article on chuck maintenance. I plan to provide
similar articles on other tools, such as band saws, in the near future. Hopefully
you'll find them useful!
Tom
Lathe Maintenance by
Tom Jones
Lathes are simple machines. There are very few moving parts which are easily
maintained. A couple of minutes spent on maintenance can extend their lives and
usefulness, as well as make them safer to use!
The exact maintenance that needs to be performed varies from lathe to lathe,
but here are a couple of things to check:
- See if your lathe's owner's manual lists recommended maintenance items.
- Check the electrical cord and any exposed wires for signs of wear. Replace if
necessary
- Check the switch. If it has play, is intermittent, or functions poorly,
consider replacing it.
- If your lathe has a belt, check it for cracks, flat spots, or other signs of
wear. Replace if necessary. For lathes that have Reeves Drives, clean and
inspect the drives as well.
- Use a vacuum to clean off as much of the accumulated dust as you can. Use a
compressor to clean the dust the vacuum can't reach. Use a small paintbrush in
conjunction with the vacuum and compressor, to get dust out of tight areas.
Don't ignore "creases"; that is, the tiny cracks and crevices between
moving parts and fixed parts.
- If you have moving parts that don't move well any more (such as a slow
turning live center), concentrate on removing compacted dust and grime, rather
than attempting to lubricate them. Typically, these parts have sealed bearings,
and are not intended to be lubricated. If lubrication is necessary, use a dry
lubricant rather than oil. Remember, oily lubricants are dust magnets, and will
ultimately do more harm than good.
- Don't forget to clean the area behind the lathe's motor and pulleys. Consider
taking the belt off, to facilitate moving the motor out of the way. Sometimes
loosening the set screws so the pulleys can be moved aside or removed
completely, can make it easier to clean behind them.
- Check the alignment on pulleys, to make sure the belt is running true, and
not chafing on the sides. Adjust the pulleys if necessary.
- Check the motor, and clean if possible. Sometimes the front bezel can be
removed. Use a soft brush and compressed air to blow out compacted dust.
- Clean the inside of the spindle and the quill using a soft, nylon brush,
twisted rag, or paper towel. Inspect the inside of the taper for scratches or
burrs. Use a fine round file to remove any burrs or sharp edges - but be
careful not to damage the inside surface of the Morse Taper, since this will
ruin the fit of accessories.
- Insert a couple of pointy centers into the spindle and quill, and bring the
tailstock up so that the two points are almost touching. Make sure they line up
perfectly. Turn the spindle by hand, and make sure there is no play (if there
is some wobble in the tip as it spins, it could be due to the drive center's
point being bent, or you might have bad bearings, or a bent spindle!). Do this
with the quill fully extended, then again with it retracted completely. The
points should line up perfectly in both cases. If not, see if you can loosen
the headstock so that it can be moved slightly, to re-align them.
- Carefully go over every screw and bolt on the lathe, and tighten them. This
includes set screws that secure the pulleys, motor mounts, etc.
- Remove the tailstock and the banjo. Use Steel Wool to clean the ways. Scrape
off dried glue and finish using a putty knife. Feel for burrs and dings that
could cause the sliding components to bind. Use a fine Bastard Mill file to
remove the burrs or raised edges. Don't forget to check the inside edges of the
ways - often, glue and finish build up here, which can cause interference
that's easily overlooked.
- Repeat this task for the bottoms of the banjo and tailstock.
- Wipe the surfaces of areas you just cleaned with a clean paper towel, but do
not wax: You want the tailstock and banjo to grip the ways tightly; wax can
cause them to slip.
- Slide the banjo back and forth numerous times, from one end to the other.
Does it slide freely, or does it bind? Does the lock hold it securely? Adjust
the screw or nut as needed to make it so that the banjo slides freely, but
holds securely.
- Repeat this process for the tailstock.
- Inspect the quill. Does it extend and retract easily? Does the quill lock
hold the quill firmly? If not, you may have to take it apart and clean it, then
reassemble.
- Inspect the tool rest. If it's made of cast iron, look for pits and burrs
along the top edge. Use a mill bastard file to smooth this surface. Wipe it
with a paper towel, then apply wax to the surface so
your tools slide across it easily. Remove the tailstock from the banjo, clean
the post, and clean the banjo's hole.
This may seem like a lot, but it really isn't. Do this a couple of times a year
and your lathe will last a long time.
Highlights Since the January
Meeting
Snow: Too much snow! Now you know why we don’t schedule outside
demonstrators during the winter.
The Woodworking Show: The show was, for us, another
success. We had an almost constant attendance
of show-goers at our booth. We also
participated in the Learn to Turn exercise usually
done by Craft Supplies. This also turned
out well, as there were some nice pens turned and we ran out of our allotted
supplies.
However, all was not
pizza and beer! The show management was,
shall we say, overwhelmed during organization and set up: our location on the show floor was moved at
least three times, there wasn’t enough electricity for three lathes, we only
got two tables of the four we were promised, they wanted our pen turning lathe
outside of our booth, and ticket distribution was @#^&$…we got everything
straightened out ourselves. The point of
relating this is that we will remedy these things ourselves for all future
shows. It may mean getting a couple of
tables and/or lathe stands. We’ll figure
it out.
By the way…the
“Strolling Seminars” never happened for the third straight year!
At our last show and tell, Ismael
showed us an oak vessel which he colored black with a fuming ammonia
process. In response to numerous
questions, he has written a tutorial on the process. Thank you, Ismael.
How to Fume Wood
By Ismael Tuazon
Introduction
As a wood turner, I sometimes use coloring agents to finish my turned objects. Some of these agents are stains, dyes, paints, inks, bleach and even Sharpie markers. When an agent is applied to the wood, a thin layer of the wood is changed to the color of the agent.
Last year, I learned that a chemical named ammonium hydroxide changes color of some species of wood like oak by interacting with the tannins in the wood. This will cause a chemical reaction, turning the wood darker in color. Ammonia gas is bubbled through water to form ammonium hydroxide. The furniture industry uses about 25-30 % of this solution while household use is about 5%.
There are some advantages of using ammonia gas fuming to change the color of wood. One is that fuming wood works all by itself while you are doing something else. Fuming seems to color wood more uniformly than the other coloring agents mentioned above. And there are no problems with blotchy stains and no drips to tarnish the finish.
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Materials needed
are:
Goggles. |
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Process For safety, wear your gloves, mask and goggles while performing this procedure outside the shop. Insert the fuming frame inside the large plastic bag. Arrange the wooden object on top of the wooden stand in the middle of the chamber. Pour about ˝ cup of the ammonia solution in the two cups and place one in the rear and the other in front of the chamber. |
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Close the bag with the bulldog to seal the chamber with the gas and wood to be fumed. Leave the chamber overnight. The following day, wear your mask, gloves and goggles before unsealing the chamber. If the wood is not dark enough, throw away the ammonia and replenish the cups. Reseal the chamber and leave it longer until the desired color depth is achieved. The intensity of the color is controlled by how long the object is exposed to the ammonia gas. |
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If satisfied, remove the object and it leave outside overnight to “off-gas” it. You can throw the ammonia liquid in a bucket of water and then use to water the lawn or garden. The left oak vessel is fumed for about 24 hours while the other one is not fumed at all. You can now apply of your choice to the object. Including stain, dye or paint. |
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Wood of the Month
Black Walnut
( Juglans nigra )
by Ron Hughes
Black Walnut is a large tree which can grow
up to 100 feet tall with a trunk diameter of up to 5 feet. It is one of the
most valuable trees grown in the
Black Walnut is native to the eastern
The Black Walnut is highly sought after for
its rich, edible and highly nutritious fruit. Its wood is also very valuable.
The heartwood varies in color from light brown to a dark chocolate. The sapwood
is nearly white. The wood grain is often wavy or curly and highly figured.
As early as the 18th century the
Black Walnut was used for cabinet work, gunstocks, musical instruments and fine
furniture. The wood is easily worked with tools and will polish to a lustrous
shine. The wood is not likely to warp,
shrink or swell to any considerable extent after it has been seasoned. Some
attention however is needed on the end grain to stop checking.
Black Walnut has a reputation for being
toxic. The tree produces a chemical called Juglone
which can inhibit the growth of plants around the roots.
Although the chemical is not harmful to
humans; some people do experience a reaction after eating the nut. Woodworkers
have had a poison ivy like rash or hives from the saw dust.
I myself have experienced some discomfort
when working with Black Walnut. The tree flowering in May will cause my nose to
run when chipping the brush. Fresh cut wet chips will burn my skin and result
in a rash. Not wearing a properly fitting respirator when turning Black Walnut
has resulted in a burning sensation in both my eyes and my nose.
It is extremely
important for all of us to have a properly fitted respirator when working on
the lathe no matter what kind of wood is spinning!
Upcoming Events
Totally Turning 2010 Symposium will be held in Saratoga Springs, NY on the weekend of March 27th & 28th, 2010. This symposium will be a part of “Showcase” which is a very large and excellent woodworking symposium. Attendees will have full access to both Totally Turning and Showcase. There will be World class demonstrators there, including David Ellsworth, Kurt Herzog, and Jean-Francois Escoulen. For more information, visit their website at: http://www.totallyturning.com
2010 AAW National Symposium will be the weekend of June 18th to 20th at the Connecticut Convention Center in Hartford. Details such as the demonstrator list and the topics for special interest night are not yet set, but will be posted on the AAW website at: http://woodturner.org/ If you are thinking of attending, register early and even earlier for hotel reservations, as close-by rooms disappear quickly.
The Monmouth Festival of the Arts will be held this year on April 17-21. This is an annual art show held at the Monmouth Reform Temple in Tinton Falls. The festival has in the past and will again feature several members from our club.
The Utah Woodturning Symposium will be held this year on May 6-8 at the Utah Valley University in Orem, Utah (a suburb of Salt Lake City).
Kurt Hertzog full day Saturday Demo will be on June 12 in John’s garage/
shop. The exact demo subject(s) are still to be set, but you can be sure it
will be well worth it. Kurt is a
professional woodturner who enjoys the entire continuum of woodturning from
making his own turning tools to photographing his finished turnings. He has
intentionally kept his turnings diverse in an effort to keep exploring the
craft and the medium. As frequent demonstrator
and instructor on many facets of woodturning, he particularly enjoys
teaching tool sharpening, work holding, and advanced pen making. For further information, visit his website
at: www.kurthertzog.com/ The member cost has
not yet been set, but it will be about what it has been in the past.
Upcoming Meetings
April: Barry Gross, world class pen turner and author, will be demonstrating pen making and finishing techniques. Finishing will include the CA glue process.
May: Open turning.
June: Show and Tell
AAW EOG Grant
Our club was recently informed by the AAW that we are awarded a 2010 grant for $600 to be used for upgrading and improving our audio/visual capabilities.
At the very least, we should improve how demonstrations are seen and heard by the audience. Filming should also be improved even though Tom has done a good job so far with a walk-around hand held camera.
Thanks Tom for submitting.
Things to think about
In the last newsletter, we asked you to think about several things, all designed for the improvement of our club. To date, we have heard nothing from anyone. Go back over last month’s issue and let us know what you think or want.
To refresh, the topics were:
AAW membership
HOW (hands on workshops)
Mentoring program
Charity/Outreach effort
More equipment for our lathes
A New Lathe?
Library Items
Thank you
Chip Giordano, owner
of Steebar, which is a turning (and other things)
site, has donated a rather large package of wood pen blanks to the club…thanks
Chip. Visit his website at: http://www.steebar.com/newsrelease.
The Website
For those of you who haven’t recently visited, take a new look! The calendar is right up to date with all sorts of interesting things, and the members’ gallery is chock full of great photos of OUR work. The site is continually getting better…thanks Tom. To submit news, calendar items, or photos, contact Tom at:
www.atlanticshorewoodturners.com
Members can get the user name and password for the members-only section at a meeting. Reminder, the members’ only section contains the complete club roster. Check it out and let me know if there are any changes needed.
Meeting
Specifics
Meetings are the second
Tuesday of each month except for July and August. They are held at the little pre-school
building, which is located at the corner of
2010 Officers and Contacts
|
President |
Tom Jones |
732.571.9636 |
|
Vice President |
Ishmael Tuazon |
732.792.3806 |
|
Treasurer |
Stan Leibowitz |
732.886.1530 |
|
Librarian |
Ishmael Tuazon |
732.792.3806 |
|
Secretary |
John Puckhaber |
732.349.4275 |
|
Newsletter |
John Puckhaber |
732.349.4275 |
Meeting
Directions
Directions: From Route 9, go east on
complex.
